The day that would ultimately become the first day of the pilgrimage into the Soul of Ireland started pleasantly after a good night’s sleep that overcome the lingering effects of the extended period of travel that landed me and companions into Dublin.
When I first arrived yesterday at the hotel where we are staying while in Dublin, I look out the window as I was closing the curtains and I notice something enticing: a little park that seemed to be ‘just around the corner’, providing a glimpse of something green in the midst of otherwise grey buildings.
This morning, having breakfasted and finding myself at something of a loose end, predominantly because we were still awaiting the remaining members of our little pilgrimage group to join us, I walked outside the door, turned left, and journeyed around the corner of the building.
And there it was, the park, the place of greenery, that I had glimpsed from my hotel room window.
It is known as the ‘Peace Park’, or ‘Páirc na Síochána’ in the Irish, and was dedicated in 1988 to Ireland’s desire for peace during the Troubles. It was quiet, unadorned apart from the sculptured image you see in the photos below, and just sitting there, bearing a silent witness to something that we should all be seeking: peace.
The first official activity of the pilgrimage, however, didn’t occur until after lunch, and after all but one of the pilgrim group had arrived in Dublin and to the hotel. That action was a visit to St Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin which, conveniently, was a very short walk from the hotel. So we decided to walk!
Before we set off, our guide, Fionnuala, told us about the incredible history and background to both St Patrick's Cathedral and Christ Church Cathedral, which is located across the road from our hotel. The first is said to be 'in liberty' because it was built outside the walls of the City of Dublin by those who, for a variety of reasons, took exception to the status quo of Christ Church Cathedral, which was most definitely built within the said walls.
Along the walk, Fionnuala showed us the social housing built by the Guinness Family (yes, that Guinness Family) for their workers. It has to be said that the efforts on the part of Guinness Family was remarkably ahead of their time and would be surprising in some parts of the world even to this day. The houses are still used as social housing, though not for the Guinness workers.
A little further along we came to the wonderful space that is St Patrick's Green, located right next to the eponymous Cathedral, and another example of wonderful green spaces that are dotted around the city. Here, in the middle of the park, we heard more of the story of St Patrick's Cathedral, along with the story of Dean Swift - he of "Gulliver's Travels" fame - especially the charitable efforts he inaugurated, some of which continue down to this very day.
And then…we entered into the Cathedral itself.
This is a place of history, beauty, and consequence for the nation of Ireland. It is regarded as the National Cathedral of (the Church of) Ireland, and also plays home to a number of significant occasions. It is also the Cathedral of the Irish Defence Forces, as evidenced by the historical colours of Irish regiments laid up in the military chapel.
The space reeks of history, evidenced not only by the various memorials to famous and significant Irish citizens, but also in the stone itself. It has stood there for centuries, from the time long before the Reformation, and it's history leaps out from the very fabric of the building.
The last activity of the pilgrimage planned for today - or at least proposed and undertaken for today - was a visit to Pheonix Park to visit the Papal Cross, erected in 1979 for the Mass celebrated by Pope John Paul II during the very first Papal Visit to Ireland.
It stands on a rise, around which 1.25 million people (from a population at the time of approximately 4 million) gathered to witness the celebration of Eucharist at that sight.
As we were driving into and out of Pheonix Park, Fionnuala, our guide, also shared some interesting extracts from Irish history centred on that particular piece of real estate. I particularly liked the statement that Pheonix Park is bigger than Central Park in New York City...but don't tell the Americans!
And from there, it was back to the hotel to ready ourselves for dinner, the first dinner we will share as pilgrims exploring the soul of Ireland.